The Ferriere and mulini valley, a lost paradise

A hidden jewel into the Amalfi coast, the Ironworks valley is a very important historical site, discover why Amalfi was of one of the most important city in Italy. A beautiful walk into a natural reserve above Amalfi, among waterfalls, crystal clear torrents, wildlife, ancient mills, and ironworks.

Everybody knows the beautiful town of Amalfi, but not everybody knows the astonishing natural reserve just above it. The Amalfi coast is well known for its breathtaking landscapes and colourful town leaning on the cliffs of the Mediterranean sea, but it’s much more than that…

Quick links

Introduction

The Ferriere and Mulini valley is a natural reserve situated between the little town of Scala and, further down, Amalfi. The natural reserve has always been an incredible resource for the locals, it started by providing fresh water to irrigate the crop fields, then in the middle age supplying energy to power the mills and ironworks and now it represents a natural jewel which attracts numerous tourists every year.

Due to its geographic location and rocky confirmation, the valley has its own microclimate. The rocky conformation protects the valley from the northern winds and exposes it to the southern warm winds from the sea, which allowed the diversification of the vegetation and to many plants, to survive for millions of years. This is also one of the reasons why this valley is very famous and attracted the interest of many scientists.

The upper part of the valley falls within the territory of Scala, due to the presence of ironworks, which is called Ferriere Valley (ironworks valley). The lower part near Amalfi, due to the presence of ancient paper mills also run by water, is called the Valley of Mills.

Photography wise this natural reserve represents a huge opportunity to have fun in different photography disciplines and take a beautiful pictures at the same time. It offers astonishing landscape photos opportunities, and due to the abundant presence of torrents and waterfalls, an ND filter and tripod are a must. The valley is also the natural habitat of the Italian frog, which can be found only in the Italian territory. This is a great opportunity to take home a perfect macro image, the frogs are used to humans so they don’t get scared easily and it’s very easy to find them.

118 Ambulance – Forestry Corps and fire emergency 1515 – Fire brigade 115

Common Italian frog.

Arrange your trip

The Ferriere Valley (click to open official website) the natural reserve can be accessed from 3 main starting points:

1 – Easy: Start from Amalfi, the low trail, so-called because it goes from sea level up to the hill, it lasts around 3 hours and terminates at the Natural Oriented Reserve. It is considered to be easy level, is suitable for children; 

2 – Moderate: Start from Pontone/Scala, the high trail, so-called because it goes from the hill down to Amalfi. It is 5km long and can be completed in 4 hours, not suitable for “difficult children”;

3 – Expert: Start from Agerola/San Lazzano until Amalfi. This is the full trail and runs along Giustino Fortunato’s path, it has a total length of 10 km and can be completed in 6/7 hours. It starts with a 1.5km road/stairs going up but afterward it goes all the way down to Amalfi. This is considered the expert trail due to its length, not suitable for children, elderly people, and unfit adults;

The Ferriere and Mulini valley routes

Starting from Amalfi is the best option, you can visit the town and the natural reserve on the same day. The starting point begins 20 minutes away from the city Cathedral, standing in front of it you have to walk towards your left going up the street, (via Lorenzo D’Amalfi then continue on via Pietro Capuano and end at via Delle Cartiere). After 15 minutes walk through the city center (very pleasing), you will find some stairs on your right-hand side that lead to the natural reserve. It is very easy and you can always ask the locals for directions. This approach involves a 30 minutes walk through various sets of stairs before you enter the park, but after that is very easy and relaxing, leaving behind the heat of the town center.

Trail number 325: Amalfi to Oriented Natural Reserve, Valle Delle Ferriere. Click on the image above to open the CAI (Alpine Italian Centre) official webpage.

This trail is called “The low trail” (Sentiero basso), If you choose this option, after the stairs you will slowly enter into the natural reserve, and you will face easy, relaxing hiking among torrents and waterfalls following the route of the Canneto torrent. You can take beautiful pictures while your family or friends can just chill out and have a bath. It’s very safe to go around the mills to reach the torrent but you can also go inside them, just be careful because is slippery. First, you will pass by the mills and later on the ironworks. Along the route you will encounter many torrents, waterfalls, little bridges, and many other photogenic subjects, to find the right spot for a picture you may have to leave the main trail but no worries, it’s safe and very easy, most important you can’t get lost, so don’t be afraid to explore the surrounding area. The trail ends at the Riserva Naturale Orientata (Oriented Natural Reserve), which is optional but I strongly advise you to visit it.

Cathedral of Amalfi.

The path from Pontone (Scala, near Salerno)

At the entrance of the natural reserve, there is an info point; where you can book a visit to the Natural Oriented Reserve or, buy the ticket; later at the entrance of the reserved area. Around the info point, there is a parking area, you can buy a whole day ticket for around 15€ at the info point itself or at the machines along the road. The first half-hour of the journey is through a lemon field and you can admire a beautiful view of Amalfi from the top.

Trail number: 301 Pontone to Oriented Natural Reserve, Valle Delle Ferriere. Click on the image above to open the CAI (Alpine Italian Centre) official webpage.

After the first half-hour walks the landscape changes completely, you find yourself surrounded by vegetation and consequently the temperature drops, if you do it in the summertime from now on the hiking becomes much more pleasing as you leave the heat behind you, if you do it in springtime you may start to wear something more… At this point, you will find a fork where on the left you can reach the Mills valley (so towards Amalfi) while the right path leads you to the Natural Oriented Reserve. I would advise you to go for the Natural Oriented Reserve first and afterward go for the rest of the trail. From the fork to the reserve is a 10 minutes walk but it is very intense, not suitable for children. Once you leave the reserve, you start the journey down the path to the Museum of Paper, where you can admire a beautiful collection of 3000 books about the famous and ancient paper of Amalfi, and the ruins of a paper factory from the 13th century. 

When you arrive at Amalfi you can chill out around the town and when it’s time to go back, there is a bus, public transport, that will take you back to Pontone, then after a short walk you can reach the parking and pick up your car.

Link for SITA Bus Amalfi – Pontone time table (Place Amalfi into the top field and Pontone into the bottom one and download the timetable (.pdf), or make a new search).

When you open the time table look for “Autolinea: Scala – Ravello – Amalfi”. The bus ticket can’t be bought on board, but must be bought prior to your journey, you can buy it at the “Tabaccheria” (newsagent).

The trail from Agerola

This trail, the most difficult among the three, starts from San Lazzaro a neighbourhood of Agerola, a town on a mountain between the coast of Naples and Salerno. This trail is quite long so it’s difficult to describe you step by step the route you have to take, so instead, I will go for the main landmarks and give you a link to the Alpine Italian Center official webpage where you can download or print the maps and moreover you can download the GPS file for the trails. The first step is to reach mount Murillo, starting from “Piazzetta Santa Lucia” (Saint Lucia square) via the “salita Radicosa” through trail 369.

Once you go around the top of mount Murillo, take the only trail that goes down the Nespola valley (on your right-hand side). Pay attention to the red-painted signal along the trail and go on the other side of the valley. After passing a chestnut wood, the path opens onto a clearing, characterized by the strong presence of bracken and cut copses. Continue on the narrow mule-track without taking any detours, until you enter the woods again. After a few meters take a narrow rocky path that leads 500m down the road until the fork, take the left to the source “Acquolella“. From here keep walking down the path to an open space where you can admire the Ironworks valley from the top.

The Oriented Natural Reserve

Unfortunately, this part of the valley is not free, but the ticket is just 5 Euro pp, and it helps to maintain and preserve the area. Staff will allow the entrance every 30 minutes in a group of 20 people and will guide you for a 30 minutes tour. Booking is not mandatory unless you are in a group of 20+ people, then is mandatory to book. Please arrive 20 minutes earlier as the delay will deny you the entrance, moreover, your ticket won’t be valid for the next tour so you will have to buy a new one, if available. Within this part of the reserve, you can find a fern dating back to the pre-ice age of the Woodwardia Radicans.

My suggestion

It all comes to you, are you in a good shape? do you have an adventurous spirit? how long do you have? Are you using public transport or do you have your own car?

As a local I like to explore different paths, I am in a good shape and I don’t have time limitations. In general, I would recommend you to start from Amalfi in the early morning, as the Natural Reserve closes around 13:15 (while the Ironworks valley never closes), so in order to enjoy the trail and have enough time to spend in a protected area, I think this is the best option. On your way back you will do the reverse route ending in Amalfi. This way you can visit the park in the morning and in the late afternoon Amalfi. This is also the best option if you are using public transport as the last journey is around 19:30 (bus and 20:30 the ferry). If you, can try to avoid the last bus because everybody wants to make the most of this experience and tend to wait for the last one available, result: the bus is overcrowded and you may not find a spot, then you have to call a taxi… (good luck). This option is also the best one if you have children or are not in a good shape, it’s easy but at the same time, you can see the best spots in the valley without missing anything, and have enough energy to visit Amalfi at the end of the trail.

What to bring: Equipment

This hiking experience involves 3 different approaches, easy, medium, and expert, so what taking with you really depends on which trail you chose. In general, I would recommend you:

• Bottle of water;
• Food;
• Hiking shoes;
• Sun cream;
• Hat;
• Camera for unforgettable memories;
• Binoculars, if you are happy to take pictures just with your phone; 
• Backpack around 20/30 litres to hold all your stuff;
• Bathing suit and towel (for the summer time)
• An extra jacket or hoodie (for the spring time);

Usually, tourists hike along the Ironworks valley between April and October when the temperature outside of the natural reserve is on average around 20 degrees (with the pick of 37/40 around July and August), and 4 or 5 degrees cooler into the valley, so clothes is a really important choice. Wear trekking shoes and comfortable light clothes, possibly cotton one and not synthetic materials, wear something that let your body breathe and keep you cool. A t-shirt and shorts will be perfect. Take flip-flops as well as when is really hot it's great to walk into the torrent instead of the path, the torrents are not deep and strong and you can easily walk in them. Although you may not be a photographer I definitely recommend you to take a camera with you.

How to reach the starting point

From Naples to Amalfi

By car take the A3 from Naples Piazza Garibaldi and Via Galileo Ferraris to Angri. Exit the A3 at Angri and take the Chiunzi pass to Ravello until Amalfi. 1hour 14 minutes –  61km. 

By ferry from Molo Beverello (Beverello dock), Naples, the journey is covered by 2 companies: Alilauro 1hour 15 minutes. Contact: +39 081 4972222 – www.alilauro.it 12 journeys per week. The second company is NLG 1hour 50 minutes 3 journeys per week contact: +39 081 5520763 – www.navlib.it The dock, where the ferry journey ends in Amalfi, is 5 minutes away from the Cathedral.

By bus don’t do it… It’s a very long journey with many possible routes and you could end up on the bus for 3 hours. Although is cheaper than the ferry there is no way I would choose this option.

By train you have 2 options:

National rail (Ferrovie dello Stato) you have to take the train Napoli Piazza Garibaldi to Salerno, is 45 minutes journey for €18.50 (one way), then you have to walk to the port to take the ferry to Amalfi, for a total journey time of 2 hours 25 minutes from Naples;

Overground (Circumvesuviana), you have to take the train to Sorrento (1 hour 20 minutes) then take the Bus (in front of the train station) to Amalfi or take the ferry (30 minutes walk) to Amalfi. The bus journey can be amazing due to the beautiful views if you are extremely lucky, so no traffic and you get the bus straightaway or a nightmare if you have to wait for the bus to depart, big queue to board it and huge traffic, which will make the journey never-ending. If you go on the ferry bear in mind you have to walk quite a lot but there is a bus from the train station to the port (you can buy the ticket from the newsagent (edicola) just outside the train station down the stairs on your left;

From Naples to Pontone

By car take the A3 from Naples Piazza Garibaldi and Via Galileo Ferraris to Angri. Exit the A3 at Angri and take the Chiunzi pass to Ravello until Pontone. 1hour 08 minutes –  58km. 

By ferry is the same journey described above to Amalfi, the only difference is that from Amalfi you have to take the bus to Pontone; Link for SITA Bus Amalfi – Pontone timetable.

By train Overground (Circumvesuviana), you have to take the train to Sorrento (1 hour 20 minutes) then take the Bus (in front of the train station) to Amalfi and exit at Pontone or take the ferry (30 minutes walk) to Amalfi and again take the bus to Pontone. 

From Naples to Agerola

By car follow P.za Giuseppe Garibaldi and Corso Arnaldo Lucci to Via Galileo Ferraris 2 min (600 m), then follow A3 and SS145 to Via Castellammare/SS366 in Castellammare di Stabia. Take the exit towards Gragnano/Agerola/Amalfi from SS145. 1 hour 49km.

By train Overground (Circumvesuviana), you have to take the train to Sorrento (1 hour) and exit at Castellammare via Nocera. Afterward, you have to take the Bus (in front of the hospital) to Agerola (15 minutes walk from the train station to the bus stop). 

By ferry from molo Beverello (Beverello dock), Naples, to Castellammare di Stabia, then you have to take the bus from Agerola (bus stop 30 minutes away walking).

From Sorrento to Amalfi

By bus take it from the stop in front of the train station, you can buy the ticket from the newsagent (edicola) just outside the train station down the stairs on your left, the journey time should be around 1hour but it depends on the traffic. Sorrento to Amalfi bus time table.

By ferry is 1 hour for 18€ via Alilauro company.

By car don’t follow google map, you should go to Amalfi through Sant’Agata dei due Golfi – Colli di Fontanelle – Positano – Amalfi. This is the shortest route.

From Sorrento to Pontone

By bus take it from the stop in front of the train station, you can buy the ticket from the newsagent (edicola) just outside the train station down the stairs on your left, the journey time should be around 1hour but it depends on the traffic. Sorrento to Amalfi bus time table. From Amalfi take the SITA bus to Pontone.

By ferry is 1 hour for 18€ via Alilauro company. From Amalfi take the SITA bus to Pontone.

By car don’t follow Google Maps, you should go to Amalfi through Sant’Agata dei due Golfi – Colli di Fontanelle – Positano – Amalfi then stop at Pontone just a few km before Amalfi. This is the shortest route.

From Amalfi to Agerola

By car drive towards San Lazzaro - Pianillo – Agerola

By bus take the SITA bus to Agerola, the journey time is around 55 minutes, you can buy the tickets from any Tabaccheria (tobacco shop), edicola (newsagent). Check the timetable on the bus company website.

Ferry companies contact info

• Travelmar +39 089 872950 – www.travelmar.it
• Alilauro +39 081 4972222 – www.alilauro.it
• Alicost +39 089 871483 – www.alicost.it
• NLG +39 081 5520763 – www.nlg.it
• PositanoJet +39 089 875032 – www.lucibello.it
• Caremar +39 081 18966690 – www.caremar.it
• SNAV +39 081 4285555 – www.snav.it
• Medmar +39 081 3334411 – www.medmargroup.it
• Capitan Morgan +39 081 4972215 – www.capitanmorgan.it

Photography

Photography wise you will need a wide-angle lens, particularly fast as most of the time you will be into the shade, other areas are very sunny and due to the abundance of torrents and waterfalls, an ND filter and tripod (and shutter release, optional) are a really good idea. A flash on the other hand is essential if you are planning to take portraits.  A telephoto lens will give you the flexibility to focus on some landscape zoom and wildlife, so bring it with you but remember not to overload your backpack because you gonna need a bottle of water and something to eat. The last time I was there I had a Tamron 35-150 f2.8-4 most of the time, and personally, if I had to choose a second lens I would take a macro one, there are plenty of flowers, and if you are lucky enough you can spot the Italian frog or a salamander.

Conclusion

The Amalfi coast is well known around the world for its beautiful landscapes and picturesque town, but the Ironworks valley and the Oriented Natural Reserve are equally beautiful, just less known. You can be a pro hiker or, like me, just a photographer in a good shape, but visiting the valley is absolutely a must, is relaxing, and takes you away from the summer heat of the city. From a photographer's point of view, the Ironworks valley is a countless source of opportunity, landscape, macro, portraits, you can use ND filter to create beautiful and original pictures of waterfalls and torrents. I can guarantee you gonna have so much fun.

Thank you very much for reading my post, I hope you found it interesting and it answered all your questions about Ironworks valley, I had to admit that on the Internet it is not really easy to find everything you need to know, so I decided to add a bit of personal experience and write this article… If you have any further questions or just need advice, please don’t hesitate to contact me, I will be very happy to help you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Please have a look at my Comment Policy before you leave any comment